MyPerspective on Sth America: September 2007

Those craving a more extreme alternative to the well trodden, mass marketed Inca trail of Machu Piccu will certainly find ´their fix´ trekking in northern Colombia´s hot, humid jungles to the lost city of Ciudad Perdida.

Seemingly lifted straight out of a Hollywood film set, the ethereal archaeological site, set high atop a steep mountain yet hidden by thick jungle, was first inhabited by the elite of an 1800 year old pre-Inca culture known as the Tayronas. An estimated 3000 priests, artisans and militia used this ceremonial centre to rule over the surrounding indigenous tribes of the Sierra Nevada range, yet the surrounding jungle would eventually reclaimed it for over 5 centuries after mass-abandonment occurred sometime during the swift campaigns of Spanish conquest in the area.

Fortunately, despite rumours of a lost city the conquistadors never found it, yet evidence of looting treasure hunters was found soon after the Colombian government finally became ´officially´ aware of its location in 1978, thereafter protecting the site. Interestingly, it is believed by archaeologists that much gold still remains undiscovered there, although the small handfuls of visitors who make the effort to reach the city on foot are rewarded with ´rich memories´ of experiencing one of the few ancient, unspoilt and less commercialised wonders of mankind left to see.

Reaching Ciudad Perdida involves a grueling but spectacular 5-6 day adventure hike through the sprawling landscapes of pristine tropical Caribbean rainforest, starting from the small indigenous village of Mamai. The remote mountain trail then winds its way up, past illegally grown coca fields, local indigenous Kogui villages and livestock pastureland before plunging deep into the jungle for the remainder of the trek.

There are more mules and livestock using the path than actual people making for a very muddy, slippery and tiring experience whilst constant humidity under the sun coupled with guaranteed rain downpours each afternoon makes keeping dry a complete impossibility. In addition, the wet´n wild route involves multiple river crossings each day (some waist deep), yet these eventually become relief under the hot morning sun.

Although travellers are not warned beforehand (because its bad for business), the entire zone for the first 2 days of walking belongs to paramilitaries who encourage local farmers to grow coca leaves used to finance their civil war. Probing enquiries revealed that local tour agencies providing guides, pay around $10 US per visitor to ´ensure their safety´, however in the past this has not always been a guarantee.

In Sept 2003, 8 backpackers were kidnapped on the site by the ELN guerrilla movement, (National Liberation Army of Colombia), with 4 Israelis and 1 British man being the last to be freed after 102 days. Interestingly, apart from walking miles per day in difficult conditions, the hostages were fairly treated and well fed by their kidnappers, with the guerrilla´s motivation reportedly to draw attention to problems faced by local communities in the Sierra Nevada and little else. Kidnappings have not been reported since, although the topic is still a hot discussion topic by most prospective trekkers.

Although the original straw housings at the site no longer exist, the ruins themselves consist of a beautiful multi-platform mosaic of 49 grass terraces (each originally owned by powerful families) and connected via narrow paths and stairs made for extremely small Tyronian feet. Certainly my favourite aspect was actually was the insanely steep, slippery, endless, moss strewn staircase that made for an obviously defensive and imposing entrance to the city at its prime.

Ultimately the thrill of crossing through unprotected wilderness areas, the beauty of the site, the chance to encounter local indigenous tribes and the amazing feeling of rediscovering an ancient civilization, are the primarily reasons for experiencing the trek to the Lost City of Colombia.