5 Apr 2007

The Carratera Austral

After a few uneventful but necessary rest days in Coyhaique, we checked out picture-perfect Reserva National Cerro Castillo and its dominating peak of basalt spires bearing the same name, before saying goodbye to southern Patagonia for more welcoming temperate climates.

Central Chile´s astounding natural beauty of winding deep valleys, fjords, raging rivers, snow capped peaks and lush temperate rainforests unfolded as we proceeded up the famed `Carratera Austral`; a recently opened route through previously inaccessible mountain wilderness on the western side of the Andes and a favourite for hitch-hikers.

With a plan to sample world class white-water rafting down the famed Rio Futaleufu, Nic and I made our way to the undeveloped town of La Junta before hitching with 6 hard-bargaining Isralie backpackers the following day to the town of Futaleufu. This turned out to be a brilliant 4 day stopover choice, where we opted for wild rafting down grade 4-5 rapids, a day walk through rural countryside and a full days white-water kayaking too; all at a time when visitor prices had lowered due to the recent `high-season` dropoff.

Afterwards we continued to Chaiten, the gateway to one of the worlds first privately co-owned National Reserves known as ´Pumalin´ (with natural hot thermal springs to boot) AND a ferry-hopping spot to either the Island of Chiloe or Puerto Montt, the southern point of the volcanic Chilean Lake District.

Overwhelmed by the sheer amount of stuff to see and do but bound by a timeframe, we took the overnight ferry directly to Puerto Montt, sharing a cramped wooden floor for sleep with 50+ other budget passengers; some accompanied by screaming toddlers adding to the futileness of an attempted decent night´s sleep.